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February 24rd 2010
..the heartbeat of the Riviera Nayarit
SAN PANCHO
MUSIC FEST. 2010.
The San Pancho Music Fest started 10 years ago in
the backyard of John & Patricia Alexander.A few musicians showed up and started playing some music on the
back porch.Word got around
and the next year a few more musicians showed up. It started looking
more and more like a festival.Eventually the success of the festival outgrew the intimate
surroundings of the Alexander back yard.It was time for a change.
John and Patricia moved on and turned over the
organization of the festival to Craig Schumacher, an internationally acclaimed
music producer and professional musician.The festival was moved to the Plaza del Sol.That was 3 years ago.
Today the
San Pancho Music Festival has grown to accommodate some of the most
colorful musicians and dancers from around the world.There is still very much a local flavor, featuring the
traditional music oflocal musicians. But the
music has expanded, attracting international acts from Europe, The U.S.,
Chile, Guatemala, France, Germany.The festival maintains a come-one-come-all -everybody- is-
welcome persona, while embracing the talents of some top-notch world
class musicians.In short,
it's a nice balance of
amateurs and professionals getting together for 3 days to share an
unforgettable music experience.The philosophy is simple.It's about sharing.
None of the performers are paid.They come because they want to be here. This year the festival
has expanded to include some wonderful , exciting, innovative dance
performances.
The San Pancho Music Festival. 2010. A vibrant,
eclectic expression of performing art. 3 days of international music and
dance.February 26, 27, 28.Friday, Saturday and Sunday.From 2pm to 10pm each day.The Plaza Del Sol in San Pancho.
2010SAN PANCHO MUSIC FEST
PLAZA DEL SOL
FEB26TH27TH28TH
FRISAT
SUN
"a Celebration of International Music"
FRIDAY FEB 26TH
2-5Open
mic
5Altrakadero or Nery(traditional or local banda)
6Tin-Tok
(traditional)
7Chas
(solo piano)
7:30Suns of Arqa(Electro
Dub/World Beat)
8:15
Japhlet (stick)
9:00Sarah
(fire dance w/Tutti & Susi percussion)
9:15
Galaxia (Progressive Rock from Guadalajara)
SATURDAY FEB 27TH
2-5Open mic
5Paul Swan(american
folklore)
6"Juan-Ted" and the Amazing Rhythm Roosters (r&r, blues)
7Jeff Oster/Chas/Andy(smooth jazz trumpet/piano/bass
8Beto Y Carlos(traditional)
9Latin Jazz Combo(incredible Hot Club/Gypsy)
SUNDAY FEB 28TH
2-5Open Mic
5Dave Fisher(american
folk)
6Tatewari (flamenco, latin...extraordinaire)
7The Combo or Faby/Shoe (originals/jazz/blues
8Tikkilyches ( r&b, blues, jazz, alt )
9La Boquita w/Adriana (Latin "Cirque de Soleil" music/dance)
10Gallo
*all performances and times subject to
change.....
50th Anniversary Celebration of
Byron & Ginger Payne
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Headline News
Mexico to apply new passport mandate
Beginning March 1, Americans and Canadians
will be required to present passports to authorities in Mexico when
traveling to that country by airplane or ship or when driving into the
interior.
The requirement will not apply to those
going no farther south than Mexican border cities such as San Luis Rio
Colorado, Son., or Los Algodones, Baja Calif., or to the nearby popular
Sonora tourist destinations of El Golfo de Santa Clara and Rocky Point.
…..Click
here to go to the original article
Medium earthquakes shake southeast of Mexico
Two earthquakes measuring 5.2 and 5.4
magnitude on Richter scale, shook the state of Chiapas in the southeast
of Mexico, without report of victims or material damages, the National
Seismological Service (SSN) said Tuesday.
One of the earthquakes measuring 5.4 magnitude was registered at 9:16
a.m. local time (1516 GMT). The epicenter was located 90 km southeast to
Las Margaritas municipality with a depth of 25 km…..Click
here to go to the original article
Ahead of spring break, State Dept issues travel alert for
Mexico border
Travel alert places emphasis on a few
hyper-violent cities and states near the Mexico border. It comes as many
US college students and families are making travel plans for spring
break. …..Click
here to go to the original article
Mexico's Actinver plans stock listing
Mexican financial group Actinver said on
Tuesday it is planning an initial public offering, the country's first
since the global credit crisis.
Actinver, a brokerage and mutual fund
operator, said in an exchange filing it would propose the the stock
listing at a shareholders meeting on March 11. …..Click
here to go to the original article
Mexico fines Eli Lilly, others for collusion
Mexico's antitrust watchdog said on Tuesday
it fined Eli Lilly and Co and other global medical companies for
colluding to inflate prices in government tenders for medicine.
Eli Lilly Mexico and three Mexican
pharmaceutical companies took turns placing winning bids in government
tenders to buy insulin from 2003 to 2006, eliminating competition and
ensuring artificially high prices, the antitrust commission said.…..Click
here to go to the original article
Mexico's earthquake recovery could be a model for Haiti
Though Mexico's government botched its
initial response to the 1985 earthquakes, it found the right formula to
build and repair tens of thousands of homes. The devastating 1985
earthquakes delivered Felipe Lembrino a mixed blessing: one year living
in a squalid makeshift camp for the displaced, but also a new home built
on government-granted land, financed by the Red Cross, constructed with
his own calloused hands.
But it was not until Mexicans like Lembrino
launched large protests against ineffective government -- barrio por
barrio, neighborhood by neighborhood -- that they were assured permanent
housing.…..Click
here to go to the original article
Circular Aztec temple found in Mexico
A temple built on a circular base, possibly
consecrated to the Aztec wind god, has been found in the historical
centre of Mexico City.
Archaeologist Eduardo Matos Moctezuma told the German Press Agency Matos
Moctezuma, Mexico's most respected archaeologist and coordinator since
1978 of excavations on the remnants of the former Aztec capital, said
the building was found behind Mexico City's Metropolitan Cathedral.…..Click
here to go to the original article
U.S. Will Share Intelligence With Mexico
The U.S. Department of Homeland Security
will share intelligence and conduct joint operations with the
notoriously corrupt Mexican Federal Judicial Police, under a new plan to
"secure the U.S.-Mexico border."
DHS Secretary Janet Napolitano and Mexican Secretary of Public Safety
Genaro García Luna signed a Declaration of Principles of Cooperation on
joint efforts to secure the U.S.-Mexico border, Napolitano said in a
statement. …..Click
here to go to the original article
OPKO Health Acquires Mexican Pharmaceutical Company
OPKO Health, Inc. today announced that it has
completed the acquisition of Pharmacos Exakta, S.A. de C.V. ("Pharmacos
Exakta"), a privately-owned Mexican pharmaceutical company engaged in
the manufacture....Click
Here to Read More
Mexico promotes bicycles to reduce pollution
A bicycle-lending programme, known as Ecobici, has
been launched in this Mexican capital to promote more
environment-friendly modes of transport and to reduce car traffic and
air pollution....Click Here to Read More
Possible UFO wormhole filmed above Mexico
An unusual cloud formation that some are suggesting
might be a UFO wormhole was filmed in Mexico earlier this month and
uploaded onto the Internet. Almost nothing is known about this
remarkable footage other than the approximate date and the fact that it
was filmed in Mexico....Click
Here to Read More
Mexico passport law to be spot-enforced
Mexican rule requiring U.S. visitors to show
passports when they enter Mexico will not be enforced at Baja California
border crossings, authorities said.....Click
Here to Read More
Mexico's Pemex will stand short for years
A new oil field in the south of the Gulf of Mexico
could hold 900 million barrels of reserves. Located off the coast
of Campeche, the discovery is important. Development could begin in in 2
years and 150,000 bbl/day could be produced.....Click
Here to Read More
New oil field in Mexico could help
rescue industry
Mexico City, Feb 17 (DPA) A new oil field was identified in the south of
the Gulf of Mexico that could help rescue the North American country's
lagging industry, according to the newspaper Reforma Tuesday. ….Go
here for original article
T3 Motion Has Been Selected as the
Clean Energy Electric Patrol Vehicle by Various Mexican Police
Authorities
www.t3motion.com, a leader in cost-effective, clean-technology vehicles,
has deployed over 75 T3 Series electric standup vehicle (ESV) in Mexico.
These innovative, all-electric vehicles are hard at ….Go
here for original article
Mexico's earthquake recovery could be
a model for Haiti
Though Mexico's government botched its initial response to the 1985
earthquakes, it found the right formula to build and repair tens of
thousands of homes. ….Go
here for original article
ANALYSIS - Mexican moguls face off in
wireless industry
Two
of Mexico's most powerful businessmen are set for a new round of
head-to-head competition as the country's television and telephone
industries converge following years of lackluster competition..
….Go here for original article
Sherri's back to the 50's valentine prom party
was attended by many locals including Marylin and James who were pretty
much wall flowers for most of the night. A king and queen were crowned
for the event and dance books were filled. The music was totally 50's
and 60's. Oh, there might have been a futuristic song thrown in now and
then. Gifts were handed out and Frank was the first to receive one after
Sherri's story about having dinner with Poncho.
Replica of
Aztec Capital to be Built in Mexico EFE
go to original
February 22, 2010
Mexico City - A replica of the sacred center of Tenochtitlan, the
capital of the Aztec Empire, will begin construction this year outside
Mexico City, the directors of the project said.
Notable among the 21 buildings that will make up the replica of
Tenochtitlan, a city founded in the 14th century and one of the biggest
of its day, will be the pyramids of Coacalco, Cihuacoatl, Chicomecoatl
and Xochiquetzal, the Temple of the Sun and courts for the pre-Columbian
ball game that played a central role in Aztec culture, all of them
surrounded by a canal.
"Rescuing history" is the key to this project, which will occupy some
300 hectares (740 acres), and where besides the pre-Columbian-style
buildings there will also be offices, two Hilton hotels and two shopping
malls, one of them dedicated to international designer fashions.
The buildings of the "sacred premises" will preserve the original
dimensions, colors and paintings that, according to the observations of
chroniclers like the Spanish conquistador Bernal Diaz del Castillo,
decorated the Aztec capital.
These pavilions will be reserved for exhibitions and, in the case of the
ball court, for concerts and cultural events. IMAX movie screens will be
installed inside some of the temples.
"We must recover the pre-Columbian architecture, our true architecture,"
the head of the project, Ivan Castañeda, said in Mexico City, but added
that these will be "smart" buildings, "as required by businesses of the
21st century."
In order to "save these roots," whose importance is stressed by the
creators of the project, the Nican Ca Tenochtitlan Center, as they are
going to call it, will also include a Museum of Aztec Culture and an
embassy of the indigenous peoples.
In addition, the canal surrounding the replica of the sacred premises
will offer a nighttime boat tour featuring a representation of how the
Aztec capital was destroyed by colonizers of the 16th century.
The team carrying out the project estimates that work will begin "in a
few months" and that it will create more than 6,000 direct jobs and will
take 5 years to finish, though the first replicas will be ready "by the
end of 2010."
The plan has a budget of $3 billion, all provided by unnamed private
investors from France, Britain, Chile and Peru.
The exact location of this park of commerce and culture has not yet been
revealed, though it is known that it will be in the town of Huixquilucan,
chosen for its proximity to a planned highway linking Mexico City with
Toluca, capital of the surrounding state of Mexico.
Update on the kindergarten projects of
Rotary and Los Amigos: Thanks to all the supporters of the kindergarten in Las Cabras.
Your
donations of money and labour have made it all possible.
The kindergarten in Las Cabras will be inaugurated on March 2nd at 2
pm.
You are invited to see the result of this community effort in person.
The parents of the
kindergarten want to invite you to eat a meal with them in celebration
of this important event. The food is free but we will probably
pass the hat to pay for the well which we still need.
If
not come anyway. We really want to see all the workers and supporters
and
there will be lots of food anyway.
The next kindergarten project is La Patria where we managed to get the
walls built last year. Work there will start in the next two weeks and
should be complete by mid May depending on how the funding flows. We
have
enough to get the roof on and almost enough to complete the project.
If you want to help you can purchase a coupon map.
You not only support a worthwhile project but it's a good deal. You get
about 1,500 pesos worth of 2 for 1 dinners, pizza, lunches and
breakfasts
for a donation of 300 pesos to the education committee of Los Amigos.
The coupons are available at:
the trailer park from Heater and Rob,
Hala at Hamaca Maya
Jeanie's real estate booth in Guayabitos
market Mondays and Thursday La Penita
market,
Xaltemba Restaurant
Bob and linda Gibbs at Casita La Penita
and of course from the los Amigos booth in
front of the church every Thursday.
Thanks to all the supporters of these projects......Johan
WE ARE MOVING….
NOUS DÉMÉNAGEONS….
NOS MUDAMOS ….
Consular Agency of
Agence Consulaire du
Agencia
Consular de
STARTING MARCH 01ST 2010
A PARTIR DU 01 MARS 2010
A PARTIR DU PREMIER MARS 2010
PLAZA PENINSULA ( Above the/ Au dessus du /Arriba
del: Porton)
Boulevard Francisco Medina Ascencio #2485, Local
“Sub. F”
Colonia Zona Hotelera Norte
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco C.P. 48300
SAME CONTACT NUMBERS / MÊME NUMÉRO DE CONTACT/
MISMOS CONTACTOS:
Tel: (322) 293 0098 & 293 0099
Emergency outsider office hours/ En cas d’urgence en
dehors des heures de bureau/ Emergencia afuera de horario de oficina:
New
Passport Rules: Mexico Tightens Travel Policy for Trade Partners The News go to original
February 18, 2010
Mexico’s National
Migration Institute said it will continue to make its
processes more efficient while respecting foreigners’
security and human rights.
Mexico City – Beginning on March 1, Canadian and U.S. citizens
who enter Mexico via air must show a valid passport or passport
card, Mexican officials said this week.
Currently, citizens without passports of these countries may
enter Mexico using naturalization papers or an original birth
certificate with a seal in conjunction with an official photo ID
such as a drivers license.
However, U.S. citizens flying back to the United States must
have a passport to re-enter, after the government passed the
Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative that took effect last June.
Citizens returning via sea or land can use other official
documentation as well, including a passport card (valid for
travel only in NAFTA countries) according to the U.S. State
Department’s website.
Canadians are currently not required to carry a passport on
entrance to Mexico, but the latter government recommends
traveling with a passport valid for six months after the arrival
date.
In a press release, Mexico’s National Migration Institute said
it will continue to make its processes more efficient while
respecting foreigners’ security and human rights.
The institute, which is an agency of the Interior Secretariat,
said that the new rules will provide legal clarity to those
entering Mexico. Passports, the institute said, have
international security standards to prevent fraud and
discretionary or abusive revisions by travelers.
Mexico’s new travel requirements requiring passports or passport
cards will not apply to tourists entering by land or sea.
The institute said that visa requirements will not change.
Currently, U.S. and Canadian tourists flying into Mexico can
stay in the country for up to 180 days before they need a visa.
Mexico’s new requirements on its NAFTA partners are less strict
than they impose on Mexico.
Mexicans wishing to enter the United States — even just to make
a connecting flight — must apply for a visa by making a
premium-rate phone call to schedule an interview and paying 131
dollars, regardless if the visa is approved. Even if it is
issued, a visa does not guarantee entrance to the country,
according to the U.S. Embassy website.
Canada did not require tourist visas until an abruptly announced
policy change last July, in response to the growing number of
Mexicans claiming refugee status, according to the Candian
government.
Amigos La Penita Meeting
Next Meeting
The next meeting of Los Amigos de La Peñita
will be on Monday, February 22 at Restaurante La Palapa de Guty,
Circuito Libertad #4.There will be a social gathering at 6:30 with the formal
meeting starting at 7:00.
Key agenda items will be:
Final
report on Fiesta 2010
Notice
of Motion: Changes to Operating Policy
Potential for 3x1 Funding
Proposals for 2010-2011 Projects
All are welcome.
John
Huston's Las Caletas PVNN
February 22, 2010
On the Trail of the Iguana - John Huston's
behind-the-scenes look at the making of Tennessee Williams' The
Night of the Iguana in 1964. (These clips include great footage
of Puerto Vallarta at the time of it's "discovery" by the
outside world.)
See Part Two
A Letter from John Huston's Eden at Las Caletas [circa 1980]
For the better part of the last five years I have been living in Puerto
Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico. When I first came here, almost thirty years
ago, Vallarta was a fishing village of some two thousand souls. There
was only one road to the outside world - and it was impassable during
the rainy season. I arrived on a small plane, and we had to buzz the
cattle off a field outside town before setting down.
Over the years I came back to Vallarta a number of times. One of those
times was in 1963 to film The Night of the Iguana. It was because of
this picture that the world first heard of the place. Visitors and
tourists flocked in.
I am now living in Las Caletas, where I've leased one and a half acres
from the Chacala Indian Community, the Mexican government has granted
these Indians a long stretch of coast and a large interior region. To
get to where I live you drive about fifteen miles south of Puerto
Vallarta to a small fishing village called Boca de Tomatlan, where the
highway leaves the sea and turns inland over the mountains. From Boca
you take a panga (an open fiberglass boat with an outboard motor) south
some thirty minutes to Las Caletas.
I have my place on a ten-year lease, with an option for another ten.
After that, the land and whatever I've built on it go back to the
Indians. Las Caletas is my third home. There are no roads to it, and
it's unlikely there will ever be - the nearest village is about half an
hour away by jungle trail. Las Caletas faces the sea and its back to the
jungle, for this reason one thinks of it as an island.
Life here is lived in the open. At night wild creatures come down to
inspect the changes I've made in their domain: coatimundias, opossums,
deer, boars, ocelots, boas, jaguars. We find their spoor or trails in
the mornings. Flocks of frenetic parrots come winging in at first light,
full of talk. They climb, dive, wheel as one bird, alight in the
treetops, all talking. They take off, do another quick turn or two and
disappear - talking.
After sunrise the jungle quiets down, but there is always something
going on at sea. Pelicans in tandem, skimming the waves - gulls and
other seabirds, diving when the surface of the bay seethes and boils
with sardines or schools of other small fish. There's a manta ray who
performs regularly about fifty yards offshore. He always jumps twice.
The first time is to get your attention. Then he throws all three
thousand pounds of himself so high out of the water that you can see the
freckles on his white underbelly Gray, humpback and killer whales and
porpoises ply the offshore waters. We're trying to keep a record on the
grays because this is the farthest south they've ever been seen.
The winters are sparkling clear. There is almost no rain for nine
months. By spring the jungle greens have faded to olive drab. In late
June the clouds begin to gather. They thicken and lower until they're
halfway down the mountainsides. The atmosphere gets heavier and heavier.
Then one day the heavens open and the torrential rains beat down.
Instantly there are explosions of color throughout the jungle: orchids,
birds or paradise, all manner of bromeliads. And every night there's an
electricity display out at sea, lighting up the horizon like a great
artillery duel between worlds.
Now that I'm of a certain age, I'm following a piece of old Irish advice
in going to live by the sea: 'It stops old wounds from hurting. It
revives the spirit. It quickens the passions of mind and body, yet lends
tranquility to the soul.'
Spend a day at John Huston's Las Caletas with Vallarta Adventures.
The Stitching Senoras drew the winning ticket
for the 2010 quilt at 12 noon today, February 14th. The winner is
Donna Taylor, a guest at Real Villas here in Guayabitos. The quilt
was previewed by the students at the La Joya school and I had to
include the photos of the kids holding it so appreciatively. As
always, 100% of the monies raised by this project go to support the
school and its students. The Stitching Senoras are pleased to send
their thanks to their patchwork of supporters in at least three
countries -- an international effort. Thanks to all.
Afgan
raises $8,000 pesos for school supplies
Dot
Just wanted to let you know that the winner of the afghan was Mr.
Richard Philippot of Winnipeg. $8000 pesos was raised to purchase much
needed school supplies.
Attached is a picture of the kids on the day of the draw.
Yvonne
San Blas Crocodile tour
Photography by Bill Bell
Xaltemba
is open every night for dinner
including
Mondays
Tuesdays,
Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays.
Saturday and
Sundays too
Mexico
Saw 15% Drop in Tourism Income in 200 Associated Press
go to original
February 18, 2010
Mexico City - Mexico's revenue from foreign tourism dropped 15% in
2009 amid the global economic downturn and the swine flu epidemic.
The Tourism Department says Mexico received almost $11.3 billion
from foreign tourism in 2009, compared to $13.3 billion in 2008.
In the wake of the H1N1 virus, also called swine flu, revenue
plummeted 49% in May compared to the same month in 2008. The
epidemic virtually paralyzed Mexico, forcing the closure of schools,
restaurants and archaeological sites. Some countries restricted air
travel to Mexico.
The department said in a statement that revenue fell just 4.5% in
December, indicating the industry was recovering.
Drug violence has also discouraged foreigners from visiting parts of
Mexico.
A
Complex Tragedy at the Border Hector Tobar - Los Angeles Times
go to original
February 22, 2010
The 800 Mile Wall highlights the
construction of the new border walls along the
U.S.-Mexico border as well as the effect on migrants
trying to cross into the U.S. This powerful 90-minute
film is an unflinching look at a failed U.S. border
strategy that many believe violates fundamental human
rights.
John Carlos Frey wants you to be angry about the U.S.-Mexico
border.
He wants you to feel such a deep sense of moral outrage that
you'll get out of your chair and write a letter to your
congressman.
That's why he invited me to the border town of El Centro, to
stand in Imperial County's pauper's cemetery, a dusty field
dotted with about 900 concrete markers the size of bread loaves.
Each was stamped with numbers or the name "John Doe." Several
hundred marked the final resting place of Mexican and other
Latin American migrants who've died walking across the desert or
drowned trying to cross the nearby All-American Canal.
Frey, a 46-year-old filmmaker, blames the U.S. government for
their deaths. In all, some 6,000 people have died crossing the
Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California borders with Mexico
since 1994, according to human-rights groups. About 500 more die
every year.
In his new documentary film, "The 800 Mile Wall," Frey says this
tragedy is the foreseeable result of a policy that sealed off
urban crossing routes, driving migrants into the desert.
"Doesn't this qualify as an atrocity to you?" Frey asked, after
we'd walked to the center of the cemetery on a warm winter day
last week.
I thought about Frey's question for a moment and tried to
imagine the individual stories that had brought all these people
to this sad end.
I've lived in Mexico and I have family in Guatemala. I've been
to the urban neighborhoods and the rural villages of adobe and
cinder-block where migrant journeys begin. But I wouldn't apply
the word "atrocity" to what I've seen, not in the sense that
Frey means.
On our long drive to El Centro, he had compared the migrant
death toll to horrors that no one would dispute deserve that
stark label: genocide in Rwanda, ethnic cleansing in Bosnia.
"Their deaths are systematic and they're the results of a
policy," he said of the border crossers. "And it's not just a
few. It's thousands." Some people, he said, think the death toll
might be as high as 20,000.
"You wonder how long it will take people to get angry," he said
later. "How long did it take in Darfur?"
Comparing the deaths at the border to massacres of Darfur makes
for a poor analogy for lots of different reasons. But Frey's
hyperbole is understandable. "Maybe it's because I've seen the
bodies," he tells me.
Frey's film contains gruesome images and heart-breaking stories.
He interviews a tearful Guatemalan man who had to identify his
wife's remains at an Arizona coroner's office before being
deported.
We meet an artist who gathers the objects migrants abandon in
the desert, including the journal of a girl crossing with her
family. The girl sketched a picture of the truck that drove her
to the border, and the green grass she imagined on the other
side.
We're shown the mummified remains of a woman -- we never learn
where she's from -- who was traveling to the Bay Area to meet
her fiance. We see the long hair flowing from her skull and the
bones that have been stripped by animal predators.
Frey told me he's going to take his film on a tour of the United
States this year. "I think if Americans knew what was happening
here, they would be compassionate," he said. "Maybe I'm naive."
He wants to use the film as a tool to build support for an
immigration reform bill in Congress that would allow migrants a
safe crossing to the jobs that await them.
That's a laudable goal. But there's something about the way he
and a lot of other people see the issue of immigration that
deeply troubles me.
As a son of immigrants, I just don't buy the constant portrayal
of immigrants in U.S. media as either victims or victimizers.
A number of television personalities have sold the American
people on the idea that Latino immigrants are a criminal force
undermining U.S. society. In "The 800 Mile Wall" the ill-fated
migrants are all victims of forces beyond their control.
"I know that they have free will," Frey said of the migrants.
"But I don't know that they have a free choice."
Actually, nearly every adult who undertakes the journey does
have a choice.
A fairly typical crossing story, I told Frey, might begin in a
Mexican town where a young woman wants desperately to go to
college. She dreams of escaping the life of domestic labor that
awaits her but can't think of any other way to defy her parents.
Or it might begin in San Salvador, with a man who wants to
emulate his wealthy cousin in Virginia.
In other words, many choose to go on la aventura, as it's
popularly known, because it's the easiest avenue to social
mobility. It's not the best choice in the world. It might be
desperate or reckless, but it is a choice.
The dead migrants in that El Centro cemetery weren't driven to
their deaths by soldiers with guns, as in Bosnia, or by killers
armed with machetes, as in Rwanda.
That's why I couldn't say it is an atrocity. It's a complex
tragedy born of inequality, yes. The policy that leads people to
risk their lives crossing the desert is cruel, yes. But it's a
risk people take, often knowingly and often from human motives
as universal as restlessness and ambition.
"This is really only a small slice of the immigrant story," I
told Frey.
I'd like to think we could build support for immigration reform
by telling the full, nuanced story of the immigrant experience
in the U.S. But maybe that makes me the naive one.
These are desperate, polarized times. People really should be
angry about what's happening on the border. They should see the
horrors of "The 800 Mile Wall" and they should ask themselves
deeper questions about why people are willing to risk death to
come here. And then they should write their congressman. hector.tobar(at)latimes.com
Guayabitos Festival a fun time for all, one last event in
February
Photography by Jim Fyke
New Homes and Living Section
February 14th, the Sol
will launch a new Homes and Living section.
"We expect there will be a
great deal of interest," says Bill Bell, Editor in Chief. "We will
feature homes in the area as well as building materials, techniques and
a whole host of information pertinent to tropical living."
"Additionally, the Homes
and Living section will focus on healthy lifestyles including recipes,
diet and fitness and travel."
Ball Games
are Rooted in Earliest Mexico Jane Stokes - NewsCanada.com
go to original
February 18, 2010
The Maya used their hips to thrust a ball
through a goal-line ring.
Mexico attracts millions of beach loving vacationers every year- and yet
amigos until you venture inland to sing and dance with this culture of
such vigorous expression, or until you walk and wander through
a-day-in-the-life of a people with 62 native languages - each one
putting their heart and soul into a homeland of colliding Indian and
Spanish civilizations-you will be missing out on some of the most moving
experiences for your own heart.
Did you know, for example, that ball games were as exhilarating to the
earliest people of Mexico as they are to the sports fan of today?
Indeed, as early as 1500 B.C., the Olmecs are thought to have invented
the ball court, a rectangular surface with a goal at each end. The
Olmecs are also recorded as the first nomadic people to settle into
communities, farm the land, domesticate animal food sources-and are duly
revered as “the mother culture” of Mesoamerica.
The ball game retained its social importance throughout the Maya kingdom
supremacy, culminating at around A.D 300. Witness the ball courts
unearthed today at sites like Tulum, Coba, Chichen Itza and San Gervasio
on Cozumel. Each court, measuring 20 meters or so, is shaped like the
letter ‘I’ with sloping sides. Modern anthropologists used pictographs
to piece together a game in which two teams of between two and 10
players used mainly their hips to thrust a large and heavy rubber ball
through a ring on the opposing goal line.
The game was both a social sport and a religious ritual, possibly played
to illustrate the Maya prowess in upholding their beliefs in
cosmological forces. Their own folklore depicts that in death, ballgame
winners are allowed to return to the world of the living. What is also
known about the Mayan ballgame is that it involved human sacrifice. What
is unknown, however, is which team was sacrificed: the winners, or the
losers. Mexico planning information is available online at
www.visitimexico.com.
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Pirated Goods
Pose Huge Problems In Mexico Jason Beaubien - NPR
go to original
February 18, 2010
Pirated DVD copies of Mel Gibson's The Passion of
the Christ sold for 30 Mexican pesos each, less than $3, in Mexico
City in 2004. The illegal copies were available weeks before the
movie premiered in theaters in Mexico. (Jorge Uzon/AFP/Getty Images)
Listen to the Story
Across from the Palacio de Bellas Artes museum in downtown Mexico city, men
with file folders offer pirated copies of all of the most popular computer
software.
In the market of Tepito, knockoffs of Tommy Hilfiger, Gap and other major
American clothing brands are available for a fraction of the price of the
real thing.
On the subway, vendors burst into the cars blaring music from boom boxes
that they've specially fitted into backpacks. Each CD they offer for sale is
10 pesos, or roughly 75 U.S. cents. Vendors offer pirated CDs of heavy
metal, flamenco, ranchera and other types of music.
Mexico's multibillion-dollar pirated goods market is worth more than its oil
exports and illicit narcotics trade combined.
Throughout the country, pirated goods dominate the marketplace, cutting into
government tax revenues, discouraging foreign investment and funding
organized crime.
Miguel Angel Teyo, 32, hawks music CDs on Mexico City's subway system. He
says it is a good job.
"It's really easy," Teyo says. "Because another job you're outside doing
construction or something else, it's really heavy or it's little money."
Teyo says the more CDs he sells, the more money he makes. He declines to say
who provides him with the CDs.
Law enforcement officials and prosecutors in Mexico say the nation's vicious
drug cartels dominate the production of black market CDs and DVD movies.
A study from the American Chamber of Commerce of Mexico, a group
representing U.S. business interests, says Mexicans each year buy $75
billion worth of knockoff DVDs, computer software, designer clothing, food,
whiskey and other items.
Other studies place the figure of Mexico's black market sales at $20 billion
to $50 billion. Mexico's largest legal source of revenue is petroleum, which
generates revenues of $25 billion a year.
The survey also found that most Mexicans knowingly and willingly purchase
knockoff products: 88 percent of Mexicans, according to the report, bought
at least one pirated item in the past year, and 12 percent of those surveyed
said they buy pirata at least once a week.
The Chamber's report assumes that a pirated DVD that sells on the street in
Guadalajara for $1 is worth its actual retail price of $18 to $20.
"We are dealing with a great problem," says Mike Margain, vice president of
the Chamber of Commerce's intellectual property committee.
Whatever the exact number, it totals in the billions of dollars and affects
the country by reducing the government's badly needed tax revenues and
providing profits to organized crime, Margain says.
"It's an economic and also social problem," he says.
The Youth
Time Bomb is Ticking Away Kent Paterson - Frontera NorteSur go to
original
February 21, 2010
Flashed around the world, the image of Luisa Maria Davila, mother of two
of the Ciudad Juarez, Mexico youths murdered in the now infamous Villas
de Salvarcar massacre last month, scolding Mexican President Felipe
Calderon for long-running official indifference photographically
captured the reality of a city now nearly destroyed by criminal
violence.
While Villas de Salvarcar undoubtedly ranks high among the more
notorious episodes of Mexico's so-called narco war, the bloodshed
registered that unforgettable night is far from exceptional in terms of
the ages of the victims and their victimizers. Less covered by the
international press, for example, was the killing of eight young people
at a Torreon nightclub the same weekend as the Villas de Salvarcar
slaughter.
Leaving aside questions of guilt or innocence for a moment, it stands
out that a great number of the estimated 15,000-17,000 people slain in
drug-related violence in Mexico since late 2006 are young people. Of
1,623 murders in Ciudad Juarez in 2008, 1,073 were committed against
persons less than 26 years of age, according to the Reforma news
service. In a recent piece, veteran Mexican journalist Raymundo Riva
Palacio reported that 54 percent of the victims of the narco war during
2008 and 2009 were aged 21 to 35.
According to Riva Palacio, the overwhelming majority were males, "and
practically all of them died by guns."
In Mexico, narco and other forms of criminal violence disproportionately
involve the young, and the victims and victimizers are getting younger
and younger. The violence affects certain regions of the country more
than others, with two of the hardest-hit areas being Ciudad Juarez and
the state of Chihuahua in the north, and the state of Guerrero in the
south, which encompasses the internationally-known resorts of Acapulco
and Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo. The link is not accidental.
From Guerrero, marijuana, cocaine and opium for heroin flow north to
Ciudad Juarez, where a local drug market of perhaps more than 100,000
users assures a thriving black market economy.
A sampling of events in Guerrero during the past few weeks is
illustrative of the nature of the violence claiming many Mexican youths.
As the Guerrero State Congress prepared to celebrate a historic
anniversary in Iguala late last month, the bodies of seven men estimated
to range from 20 to 25 years of age were found tossed around the city.
The victims had been bound, tortured and probably suffocated. All bore
cryptic messages labeling them as kidnappers, money lenders and thieves
with degrees. The daily El Sur newspaper later reported that one of the
victims, Fernando Delgado Torres, was a minor.
Young faces, especially those of men, etch the portraits plastered on
the posters of the disappeared. In Zihuatanejo, tourists who snap out of
their margarita dazes might notice the huge banner draped on the fence
of City Hall pleading for information on the whereabouts of Alberto
Acosta Apreza, missing since September 2009. Attentive pedestrians might
also see one of the small posters placed around town for Eduardo
Hernandez Santacruz, reported disappeared since January 26 of this year.
On February 1, "collateral damage," in the vocabulary of war planners,
claimed the life of five-year-old Yoselin Guadalupe Padilla Corona, who
was riding a truck that was ambushed by gunmen in Quecheltanango.
Meanwhile in Acapulco, Julieta Fernandez, president of the local DIF
family shelter, told the press that street children as young as five
years of age were addicted to drugs and being used to sell illicit
substances.
On Mexico's Gulf Coast, developments are as alarming as those on
Guerrero's Pacific Coast In February, young offenders rioted at a
Tabasco "correctional center," perhaps in a dress rehearsal for the
frequent adult prison riots which have turned Mexican penitentiaries, in
the judgment of prominent journalist and commentator Miguel Angel
Granados Chapa, into de facto execution chambers. In another news item,
Tabasco authorities announced the detention of a 13-year-old girl
allegedly trained as a hired assassin.
Smug and racist North Americans are prone to dismiss the violence
described above as additional examples of Mexico's failed state, or as
inevitable outcomes of an inherently violent culture. Can't happen in
the Good Old USA? Think again. Immediately, the inner-city crack wars of
the 1980s come to mind.
Lately, it's been fashionable in some quarters to explain away Villas de
Salvarcar and similar atrocities as the inevitable consequences of the
loss of family values and moral turpitude. But there is much more to an
explanation.
Writing in Mexico's Proceso newsweekly last month, columnist Axel
Didriksson commented on a recent study by Jack Goldstone on the world's
new "population bomb."
In Mexico's case, Didriksson noted, 40 percent of young people aged
16-18 do not study. According to Didriksson, 10 million young people are
not enrolled in school. "Almost one million-and-half youths do not have
stable work, and more than two million who obtained higher education do
not have adequate work," he added.
In Ciudad Juarez, academic researchers have coined a term for the idle
youth population—Ninis, which translates into no work or no study.
Quoted in Proceso, Professor Maria Teresa Marrufo of the Autonomous
University of Ciudad Juarez said another 7,000 local children have lost
one or both parents to the drug violence during the past two years.
Viewed through Didriksson's demographic lens, it is safe to predict that
an almost endless stream exists of future drug consumers, dope dealers,
hired killers and other illegal professionals. Unless, of course,
economic, social and political conditions undergo radical changes.
"Really, we are facing a time bomb," Didriksson concluded.
For Marrufo, the situation in her city is a "social catastrophe."
The youth crisis is not exclusive to Mexico. Citing the Center for Labor
Market Studies at Northeastern University, the Washington, D.C.-based
Center for American Progress (CAP) reported this month that the number
of young people aged 20-24 who attend school in the US dropped by 10
percent during the last two years. For those in school, skyrocketing
tuition in many states promises many a post-graduate, job-thin future of
debt servitude.
Young people are being denied gainful employment in massive numbers. And
as always, communities of color are disproportionately affected by the
unemployment crisis. According to the CAP, at least 14 percent of
African-American adolescents and 23 percent of low-income Latinos in the
same age range are unable to find a job. Shirley Sagawa, a CAP visiting
fellow, noted that many youths "could wind up permanently marginalized
economically."
What shreds will the youth bomb leave if it blows up north of the
border? Kent Paterson is the editor of Frontera NorteSur, a free, on-line,
U.S.-Mexico border news source.
Frontera NorteSur (FNS)
Center for Latin American and Border Studies
New Mexico State University
Las Cruces, New Mexico
Riviera
Nayarit Sets Sail: Nautical Extravaganza Will Showcase the Destination
in 2010 Rafael Torres - rivieranayarit.com
February 16, 2010
Nautical Extravaganza will bring eleven
spectacular events together in a month of unprecedented
activity. For more information, visit
NauticalExtravaganza.com.
Riviera Nayarit is positioned to become a top maritime destination,
welcoming a much anticipated series of nautical events from February
27th through March 20th that are being hailed as Riviera Nayarit's
"Nautical Extravaganza."
Leading the forefront is the maritime "crown jewel," the new Marina
Riviera Nayarit in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. The biggest marina in Mexico,
the Marina Riviera Nayarit, has 341 slips that can accommodate yachts up
to 400 feet. The marina, along with Riviera Nayarit's pristine coastline
and beaches, allow for Riviera Nayarit to seamlessly evolve into a
renowned nautical destination.
In 2010, Riviera Nayarit will host a variety of nautical events,
including the internationally renowned Regatta Copa Mexico, which will
showcase the destination's water-friendly appeal; from boat races, to
dry land beach competitions, to the Latin America boat show, to the
final event, the Regatta Bahia de Banderas.
The major highlights of the Riviera Nayarit Nautical Extravaganza are:
Desafio 2012 (The Challenge)
Tania Elias Calles will make the journey from Los Cabos to Riviera
Nayarit (approximately 500 miles) without touching ground or assistance.
Beginning on February 27th, and after her 48 hours, she will be welcomed
to the Bahía de Banderas.
MEXORC Oceanic Race, February 27 - March 6
In conjunction with the Copa Mexico, the MEXORC Oceanic Race will be
held from consisting of 7 days of racing with a lay day period including
the Presidents Cup distance race, Mariettas Islands distance race and
windward-leeward races.
Regatta Copa Mexico, February 27 - March 13
The Regatta Copa Mexico is a joint effort between the Mexican Government
and the Mexican Sailing Associations. It is a great international
perpetual event, with multi-classes that takes place every two years,
throughout the coasts and ports of Mexico. This year, the events will
take place in Banderas Bay, Riviera Nayarit.
Beach Volleyball championships, March 3-7
Round robin games with national teams from Brazil, Spain, the United
States and Mexico.
J24 Regatta, March 7-13, 2010
Ten races over five days featuring the one-design keelboat; ideal for
racing competitions with family togetherness in mind.
Latin America Boat Show, March 11 - 15
The second Latin America Boat Show held in Mexico will be at the Marina
Riviera Nayarit at La Cruz where more than 120 boats will be on display
for all boat enthusiasts and visitors to view.
Regatta Bahia de Banderas, March 16 - 20
Held in Nuevo Vallarta and hosted by the Marina Riviera Nayarit, the
intent of this bi-annual event is to increase tourism to the region and
to develop the Sailing Culture in Mexico. The five day event is intended
for competitive fun designed for coastal and offshore cruising.
How
Mexico's Drug War May Become Its Iraq Ioan Grillo - Time
go to original
February 22, 2010
A cross built by residents in the Ciudad
Juarez graveyard symbolizes the death of a once thriving
city. (Janet Jarman/Corbis)
The no-nonsense government ads flash onto prime time Mexican TV
between soccer games and steamy soap operas. Bullet-filled corpses
are shown sprawled on the concrete; ski masked special forces are
seen storming down residential streets; and bearded bulky capos are
dragged before the cameras in handcuffs. "Today these killers are
behind bars," says a booming voice-over. "We work using force for
your security."
But while the spots boast of victories and progress, a rising chorus
of voices across Mexico are complaining that the military approach
to Mexico's crime problem is not bearing fruit. Leftists and human
rights groups have slammed the central role of the army and
paramilitary police since President Felipe Calderón took office in
2006 and ordered 50,000 troops to fight the drug gangs. But in
recent weeks, critics have been joined by some of the government's
key allies, including members of Calderon's conservative National
Action Party, regional business lobbies and the Roman Catholic
Church. Such pressure could affect how the president sees through
the drug war during the second half of his term, which ends in 2012.
Most criticism centers on the relentless gang-related violence,
which has only worsened, even as thousands of traffickers are jailed
or extradited to the U.S. In total, there have been more than 16,000
murders that appear to be drug related since Calderón kicked off the
crackdown, with this January being the bloodiest month yet. Doubters
now say soldiers may be inflaming the gang killings rather than
diminishing them. "Security is not directly or principally related
to the ability to use force, the number of police officers, the
degree of militarization or the purchasing of weapons," the Mexican
bishops conference said in a Feb. 15 letter to the government. "With
the passage of time, the participation of the armed forces in the
fight against organized crime has provoked uncertainty in the
population."
Others argue that the violence has mushroomed because the army is
directing its attacks at certain cartels, a tactic that only
strengthens the rivals of those gangs. Rep. Manuel Clouthier, who
hails from a prominent National Action Party family, lashed out in a
series of interviews this week that the omnipotent Sinaloa cartel of
his native state has not been targeted. "In some places they have
hit the gangsters. But in my state, everyone can see that the bad
guys are being allowed to work," he told TIME. "There is a mafia
cabal of criminals, politicians and businessmen and it has simply
not been touched." Much of the bloodshed in Mexico is blamed on the
efforts of this Sinaloa cartel to expand into new territories. Party
leaders and officials swiftly hit back, saying that all criminal
groups have been equally attacked.
There are also signs the Mexican public is losing its stomach for
the fight. A Feb. 15 survey by Buendia & Laredo found that 50% of
respondents thought the government offensive against drug
traffickers has made the country more dangerous, while only 21%
thought it had made it safer. Another 20% said it had had no effect
and 9% gave no comment. Half of respondents also said they
personally felt threatened by criminal violence, up from 35% who
said they felt threatened in a 2008 survey.
These doubts come as the United States continues to throw its weight
behind the campaign. Homeland Security Secretary Janet Napolitano
signed an agreement for enhanced cooperation in the Mexican capital
this week, declaring that "the collaboration between Mexico and the
United States has never been stronger." The latest accord follows a
hike in funding for the so-called Mérida Initiative to beef up
Mexican security forces. In total, the U.S. has pledged $1.6 billion
worth of equipment and training for its neighbor, including eight
Black Hawk and 13 Bell helicopters for Mexico's army and federal
police.
Whatever the criticism, Calderón himself insists that he will not
steer away from his military strategy. Since taking power, he has
identified with the fight against cartels as his personal battle
more than any other Mexican president, breaking with tradition to
don a green army uniform in one address to frontline soldiers.
This Friday, he went to the top military school to praise the
efforts of the troops. "To confront these criminals without
scruples, the presence of the Armed Forces has been and is
fundamental," he said. It would also be tough for Calderón to send
the soldiers back to the barracks while the violence is worsening
for fear it would concede a defeat. This quandary has led critics
here to regularly compare the conflict to the Iraq War in Bush's
second term; it is a war in which the president cannot claim
victory, cannot pull out of, and which only gets worse.
lick
the ad to go to our s
The Good
Life in Xalisco Can Mean Death in the United States Sam Quinones - Los Angeles Times
go to original
February 17, 2010
People line up for a turn on the Himalaya
carnival ride at the newly enriched summer festival in Mexico's
Xalisco County. (Gina Ferazzi/Los Angeles Times)
Xalisco, Mexico - As a boy, Esteban Avila had only a skinny old horse
and two pairs of pants, and he lived in a swampy neighborhood called The
Toad. He felt stranded across a river from the rest of the world and
wondered about life on the other side.
He saw merchants pay bands to serenade them in the village plaza and
dreamed of doing the same.
He had a girlfriend but no hope of marrying her because her father was
the village butcher and expected a good life for his daughter.
Then Avila found an elixir and took it with him when, at 19, he went to
the United States. It was black-tar heroin, and selling it turned his
nightmare into a fairy tale.
Avila was part of a migration of impoverished Mexican sugar cane farm
workers that has had profound repercussions for cities and towns across
America. Over the last decade and a half, immigrants from the county of
Xalisco (population 44,000), in the Pacific Coast state of Nayarit, have
developed a vast and highly profitable business selling black-tar
heroin, a cheap, potent, semi-processed form of the drug.
Their success stems from a business model that combines discount
pricing, aggressive marketing and customer convenience. Addicts phone in
their orders, and drivers take the heroin to them. Crew bosses sometimes
make follow-up calls to make sure addicts received good service.
The heroin networks need workers, and the downtrodden villages of
Xalisco County have provided a seemingly endless supply of young men
eager to earn as much money as possible and take it back home.
As black-tar heroin ruined lives in the United States, it pulled the
poorest out of poverty in Xalisco. Drug earnings paid for decent houses
and sometimes businesses, and it made dealers' families the social
equals of landowners. By addicting the children of others, they could
support their own.
"I'd be lying if I said I was sorry," Avila said. "I did it out of
necessity. I was tired of birthdays without gifts, of my mother
wondering where the food was going to come from."
Boom times
Xalisco County begins a couple of miles south of the state capital of
Tepic and spreads across 185 square miles of lush, hilly terrain. A
highway curves through it to the tourist resort of Puerto Vallarta to
the south.
The county seat, also named Xalisco, is a town of narrow cobblestone
streets and 29,000 people. For many years, dependence on the sugar cane
harvest kept the county poor. Houses had tin roofs, and few had proper
plumbing.
Xalisco ostensibly still depends on sugar cane. But it is now among the
top 5% of Mexican counties in terms of wealth, according to a government
report.
Enormous houses with tile roofs and marble floors have gone up
everywhere. In immigrant villages across Mexico, people build the first
stories of houses and leave iron reinforcing bars protruding skyward
until they save the money to add second stories. Often the wait is
measured in years. In Xalisco, homes go up all at once.
Off Xalisco's central plaza are swanky women's clothing stores and law
offices. Young men drive new Dodge Rams, Ford F-150s and an occasional
Cadillac Escalade. Outside town are new subdivisions with names like
Bonaventura and Puerta del Sol.
Xalisco's Corn Fair, held every August, is another measure of the town's
newfound wealth. Twenty years ago, the fair's basketball tournament was
a modest affair. Teams from surrounding villages competed against one
another in ragged uniforms.
Then "the boys began going north and getting into the business," said
one farmer. "The town just began to come up."
The tournament purse grew so fat that semi-pro teams began competing.
Last year, with first prize worth close to $3,000, semi-pro squads from
Mazatlan, Monterrey and Puerto Vallarta competed, each with American
ringers. One local village sponsored a team made up entirely of hired
players, reputedly paid for by a heroin trafficker.
Sharing in this wealth to varying degrees are 20 villages scattered
across the hills south of the town of Xalisco. Esteban Avila was born in
one of them, a place named for the Mexican revolutionary hero Emiliano
Zapata.
Avila, now 35, is in a federal prison in Texas, serving a 15-year term
for conspiracy to distribute heroin. He described his odyssey in
interviews with The Times on the condition that he would not talk about
anyone else in the drug business.
When he was a boy, the village of Emiliano Zapata was poor and notorious
for its violence. In The Toad, where Avila's family lived, roofs leaked
and the hills were the bathroom. When Avila and his friends went to the
village basketball court, other boys ran them off with rocks and
insults.
Later, Avila wanted to join the Mexican Navy or highway patrol, but only
sons of well-connected fathers were admitted, he said.
"In the United States, there's no need to be a criminal to live well,"
he said. "But in Mexico, they throw you into a dead end."
At 14, Avila traveled to Tijuana, then slipped across the border and
made his way to the San Fernando Valley.
"I wanted to look for some new way to live, something with a future," he
said. "I wasn't going to find it in the village."
But he didn't want to go to school and he was too young to work. So he
returned to Emiliano Zapata and bided his time working in the sugar cane
fields.
In the mid-1990s, men from Xalisco began selling black-tar heroin across
America. A friend who ran a heroin network recruited Avila to work as a
driver in Phoenix.
Avila, then 19, accepted. Every day, he drove around the city, his mouth
full of tiny, uninflated balloons, each filled with a tenth of a gram of
heroin. Addicts phoned in orders. A dispatcher relayed them to Avila,
who delivered the drugs to customers and collected payment.
Five months later, he took a bus back to Xalisco with $15,000 in his
pocket. He was wearing new Levi's 501s - a prized garment in many
Mexican villages.
"That night was the first time we had more than enough to eat," Avila
said.
His parents never asked how he made the money.
In the Xalisco system, drivers commonly strike out on their own after a
few years and set up delivery operations. In 1997, Avila told his boss
that he was going to seek his own heroin market in New Mexico.
A friend told Avila about addicts in Santa Fe, so he went there. He
found those addicts and through them many more, including dozens in
Taos, Xalisco's sister city. A half hour away, he discovered the town of
Chimayo, in the verdant Espanola Valley, with one of the highest rates
of heroin addiction in the country. Soon, Avila's cheap, powerful black
tar drove out the powder heroin that addicts had been using.
Avila declined to reveal where he got his heroin, other than to say that
Nayarit's mountains are filled with small poppy farms and that black tar
is easily made.
In Albuquerque, he bought a counterfeit birth certificate and driver's
license; he crossed the border posing as an American from then on. Back
in Xalisco, he hired drivers from villages near his own, paying
smugglers to bring them across the border.
"Some drivers just wanted enough to build a decent house or buy a new
truck. Then they were coming back home," he said. "Some wanted to fly,
like I did."
He returned to Emiliano Zapata and for three years managed the business
from Mexico, returning to the United States only occasionally. At home,
families asked him for loans; some paid him back. Poor young men asked
him for work up north.
He took his family to fine restaurants in Tepic, where they nervously
rubbed elbows with the city's middle class.
"Our life changed entirely," he said. "It gave me more self-assuredness.
If you have a peso in your pocket, you feel lighter of spirit. The
weight of life is easier to carry."
At a fiesta in Xalisco's plaza one night, Avila and a friend paid for 11
hours of banda music, plus alcohol: a $3,000 tab.
He paid for one sister's quinceañera and another's wedding. He paid for
a sister to attend college in Tepic, the first in her family to go.
Now he could give his girlfriend the life her parents expected. He stole
her away to a Puerto Vallarta hotel for a weekend - which in the village
meant they were married.
Avila hired workers to build a house for his parents and men to help his
father in the field. He hired a maid to help his mother. He moved his
wife and children away from Emiliano Zapata and its violence and low
expectations.
His father was greeted on village streets by those better off than he.
He drank less, yelled less. One day, seeing his son with some cocaine,
Avila's father took him aside and counseled him not to use drugs and to
avoid bad habits.
"For the first time, I felt he spoke to me the way a father should speak
to a son," Avila said.
Heroin opened vistas for other sugar cane cutters' sons as well. The
village's moneyed classes no longer could talk down to farmers.
"We were all equal now," Avila said.
Over the next decade, networks of Xalisco dealers moved across the
country, often competing with one another in such cities as Columbus,
Ohio; Portland, Ore.; and Nashville.
Much of the money they earned flooded south, reaching the poorest of
Xalisco County, people used to cutting cane for $8 a day.
So as quickly as dealers were arrested, they were replaced by others
from Xalisco betting they could elude capture long enough to return with
money for a house, truck or other mark of success.
One heroin driver from the village of Aquiles Serdan built a house with
an electric garage-door opener, awing his neighbors.
Another former sugar cane worker, speaking on condition of anonymity,
described the impression made by the device. "Everybody watched while
the door went up by itself," he said. "People would walk by and look at
it."
Seeing young men his age return from the United States with money, this
man decided he wanted some too. He became a heroin driver in a
southeastern U.S. city.
"I had a wife and son and I couldn't support them," he said. "I thought
I'd buy land, and build us a house." He said half the young men in
Aquiles Serdan left to try their luck as drivers.
In his first six weeks last year, he earned $7,000, more than he'd ever
had at one time. Then he was arrested. He pleaded guilty to distributing
heroin and faces up to 10 years in prison.
Back in Aquiles Serdan, 20 new houses have gone up, several with
electric garage doors.
Operation Tar Pit
In 2000, Esteban Avila's fairy tale ended. He was among nearly 200
people arrested in a dozen cities in a federal investigation dubbed
Operation Tar Pit. The case began in Chimayo after a rash of overdoses -
85 deaths in three years, representing 2% of the town's population.
The arrests marked the first time the Drug Enforcement Administration
had pieced together the national reach of Xalisco dealers. In Xalisco,
the busts had an almost recessionary effect. "The fiesta was dead.
Nobody was coming to the plaza," said a man who lived there at the time,
speaking on the condition that he not be identified.
The easy money Avila made turned out to be the hardest of his life. His
children are growing up without him.
Still, heroin lifted his family's horizons. Avila believes that poor
people get no breaks they don't make for themselves. Had he been able to
achieve anything by legal means, he would have, he says.
The truth of that is hard to know. But it does seem that black-tar
heroin, as it destroyed lives in America, remade his own in Mexico and
channeled his gumption unlike anything else available to him at the
time.
"At least I'm not going to die wanting to know what's on the other side
of that river," he said from prison. "I already know."
Driving Safely in Mexico
Driving safely in Mexico tips by Bill and Dot
Bell